The three Great Lifts and the Tower of Mzark
Once inside, three Great Lifts give fast surface exits. Each is blocked by spears on the Blackreach side until you press a button on a sculpted metal head next to it. Ride up and pull the lever to the right of the gate, which is locked from the inside. After that the lift works from the surface too and you can fast travel straight to it.
The fourth exit is the Tower of Mzark, the goal of Elder Knowledge. It can only be entered from Blackreach the first time. Inside, place the Blank Lexicon in the Oculory, then press the second button from the right four times, the second from the left twice and the leftmost once to lower the Elder Scroll (Dragon).
What is inside Blackreach
The cavern is lit by giant glowing mushrooms and centred on the Silent City, a ruined Dwemer town whose tower is topped by a large orange globe. Named buildings include the Debate Hall, Hall of Rumination, Pumping Station, Silent City Catacombs, Reeking Tower, Derelict Pumphouse and War Quarters.
Enemies are Falmer and their servants, chaurus, Dwarven spiders, spheres and centurions, frostbite spiders, frost trolls, a giant and wispmothers. There is also a secret dragon: shout Unrelenting Force at the orange globe above the Silent City and Vulthuryol appears. This only happens once.
Blackreach is the only place crimson nirnroot grows, with 44 plants scattered across the cavern. It also holds 36 geode veins (34 in the open cavern, 2 in the Silent City Catacombs) that yield soul gems and corundum.